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Charley Phillips

A Guide to Visiting Big Bend National Park

Updated: Feb 7, 2022


Chisos Mountains - Big Bend National Park
Chisos Mountains - NPS Photo/Blake Trester
This park is one of two national parks in the state of Texas. When most people think of West Texas, they think of flat and dry terrain. But hidden deep in West Texas is large mountains, tall canyons, and beautiful views. Big Bend National Park is located just outside of Terlingua and borders Mexico. The park was named after a large bend in the Rio Grande/Río Bravo. Big Bend is made up of three main areas: the Chisos Basin area is high in the mountains, the Rio Grande Village is on the east side. of the park and is along the river and the Castolon which is also along the river but is on the west side of the park

Base Elevation - 1,800 ft
Peak Elevation - 7,832 ft

Nearest Town: Terlingua, TX

Terlingua is a former mining town where the desired mineral was cinnabar. The town is now mostly a ghost town, with only 110 residents reported on the 2020 census. The remnants from the town and the Chisos mining company are mostly the Perry Mansion and many abandoned mines.

Another interesting part of Terlingua is the Villa de la Mina. A former mining compound that had several resurgences in the 1920s, '60s for a chili cookoff, and in the '80s as a Playboy mansion. There are several abandoned homes on the property as well as an old hotel, and abandoned mineshaft. The Villa de la Mina is now owned by the owner of the El Dorado Hotel. Keep in mind that the Villa is private property, so do not go exploring for yourself without permission to be there.


Also, several movies and shows have been shot on this compound in the past few years including Badlands Texas, American Violence, and Frank and Penelope. My boyfriend and I actually worked on a movie that was filmed in Terlingua in early 2021. The movie is called Free: Dead or Alive for those of you that may want to check it out. The video clip is from a day on set at the compound.

Points of Interest


Santa Elena Canyon
Santa Elena Canyon. Large canyon walls with the Rio Grande flowing in between.
NPS Photo - Ann Wildermuth
Santa Elena Canyon is one of the most breathtaking sights in Big Bend National Park. It is visible for over 10 miles away, as the canyon walls are about 1,500 feet high. The Rio Grande cuts through the mountains via a deep, narrow gorge. The river flows through this canyon for many miles until it begins to open up near the town of Lajitas. You can experience the beauty via the Santa Elena Canyon trail.
Find the trail guide here.

Rio Grande Hot Springs
NPS Photo - Matthew Yarbrough
Pictured above is what remains of the foundation of the Langford Hot Springs Bathhouse. There are. hot springs to soak in that you can access from Hot Springs Road, a two-mile gravel road that will bring you to the Hot Springs Historic District (be aware that motorhomes and oversize vehicles are prohibited on the one-way sections of this road), which will bring you to the Hot Springs trailhead. From this trailhead, you will hike 0.5 miles down to the hot springs. Once at the hot springs, you can enjoy and relax in the natural 105° water. (Soak with caution as temperatures can fluctuate).
Find the trail guide here.

Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook
NPS Photo - CA Hoyt
"In 1928, Homer Wilson bought land in the foothills of the Chisos for a sheep and goat operation. Eventually, his ranch spanned 45,000 acres. The line camp at the base of Signal or Carousel Mountain was built for the ranch foreman, Lott Felts." Check out this amazing piece of history with a quick 0.5-mile hike from Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive.
Find the trail guide here.

Window View
NPS Photo
Try to stop and see the sunset through the Window of the Chisos Mountains. There are two ways that you can experience the window. One is the Window Trail, which is a moderate, 5.6-mile round trip hike. The other is the Window View Trail, which is an easy, quick, 0.3-mile trail off of the road near the Chisos Mountain Lodge.

Emory Peak
The Basin from the Summit - Wiki User Fredlyfish4
Emory Peak is the most prominent peak in the state of Texas. After a 5 mile hike, you will arrive at the breathtaking, 360° views of the Chisos Mountains and the Chihuahuan Desert. This is the highest point in the park, at 7,825 ft in elevation. This hike is difficult with about 2,500ft in elevation gain and some scrambling towards the top. The returning hike is also uphill.
Find the trail guide here.

Balanced Rock
Balanced Rock in Grapevine Hills - Wiki User Sefor4
You can get to Balanced Rock via Grapevine Hills, this is a 2 mile out and back trail. This is a moderate trail with beautiful views. Be aware that the road to get to the Grapevine Trailhead is very rough, it is recommended that only high clearance vehicles travel the road and that no passenger cars, minivans, or RVs should attempt to drive this way.
Find the trail guide here.

Hike Worthy


The Lost Mine Trail
NPS Photo - T. VandenBerg
Lost Mine Trail is a 4.8 mile heavily trafficked out and back trail that features beautiful wildflowers. Be prepared for 1,100 feet in elevation gain and moderate difficulty. The average time it takes to finish this hike is about three hours. The trail surface is composed of dirt and rocks. The second half of the trail includes switchbacks and steps.
Find the trail guide here.

South Rim Trail
South Rim View. A dead tree in the foreground, cascading mountains and caprocks in the background.
NPS Photo - Mark Schuler
This trail is not for the faint of heart. This strenuous trail is 12-14 miles round trip and has around 2,000 ft of elevation gain. Halfway through your hike, you will see amazing views from the South Rim. From this hike, you can also access Emery Peak as well as several backcountry camping spots such as Boot Canyon, East Rim, South Rim, Blue Creek, Laguna Meadow, and many more.
Find the trail guide here.

Chisos Basin Loop Trail
NPS Photo
Take a stroll through the basin of the Chisos Mountains on this easy 2-mile hike. This hike is a good opportunity to see some local wildlife tracks and even some animals as well. Also on this trail is a good view of the Window of the mountains. For a more experienced hiker, this could be a great warm-up or cool down to your hiking trip.
Find the trail guide here.

Mule Ears Spring Trail
NPS Photo
Mule Ear Spring is a 3.9 mile moderate, out and back trail that offers scenic views. The Mule Ears are a set of twin volcanic dikes that were left as pointed projections into the sky. They can be seen from almost any location in the eastern half of the park.
Find the trail guide here.

Chimneys Trail
NPS Photo - CA Hoyt
This trail is located close to Santa Elena Canyon, off of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. These tall, rocky “chimneys” serve as an important landmark in the area and feature Indigenous art at their bases. For more advanced hikers, the trail continues past the Chimneys for another 4.6 miles, ending on the park’s Old Maverick Road.
Find the trail guide here.

Places to Stay

In the Park
Chisos Basin Campground

The Chisos Basin Campground is nestled in an open woodland within a scenic mountain basin. Campers enjoy the views of Casa Grande and Emory Peak. The sunset through the nearby "Window" is a Big Bend highlight. Some of the park's most popular trails begin nearby. Each site comes with a picnic table, charcoal grill, and bear-proof food storage container and some sites come with picnic shelters for shade. All campsites are within easy walking distance of drinking water and toilets.

  • Open year-round.

  • No Electric Hookups

  • Trailers over 20 feet and RV's over 24 feet are not recommended due to the narrow, winding road to the Basin and small campsites at this campground.

  • Reservations are required No First-Come First-Served Camping

  • Wood fires and ground fires are NOT allowed anywhere in the park. A charcoal fire in an above-ground grill is allowed; ashes must be packed out. Liquid-fuel stoves are allowed.

Rio Grande Village Campground

The Rio Grande Village Campground is set in a grove of cottonwoods and acacia trees and is located near the Rio Grande. Paved roads connect each campsite, and grassy areas separate each site. Flush toilets, running water, picnic tables, grills, and some overhead shelters. Dump station nearby. Campers enjoy birdwatching, hiking, exploring. A camp store with showers and a park visitor center is nearby.

  • Open year-round

  • No Electric Hookups

  • Reservations are required No First-Come First-Served Camping

  • Wood fires and ground fires are NOT allowed anywhere in the park. A charcoal fire in an above-ground grill is allowed; ashes must be packed out. Liquid-fuel stoves are allowed.

Cottonwood Campground

Cottonwood Campground is a quiet oasis in the western corner of Big Bend National Park. Conveniently located between the Castolon Historic District, the scenic Santa Elena Canyon, and the tail end of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, this small, 22-site campground is one of the least-known and quiet campgrounds in the park. There is one group campsite and 21 individual sites. This is a remote campground in a remote park. It is dry camping, no hook-ups, and no generators are permitted.

  • Open November 1 to April 30

  • No Electric Hookups

  • Reservations are required No First-Come First-Served Camping

  • Wood fires and ground fires are NOT allowed anywhere in the park. A charcoal fire in an above-ground grill is allowed; ashes must be packed out. Liquid-fuel stoves are allowed.

Rio Grande Village RV Park

Open, paved lot with grassy, tree-lined edges. Adjacent to the Rio Grande Village camp store. This campground, operated by Forever Resorts, has the only full hook-ups in the park. 25-site RV park (full hook-ups—water, electrical, and 3-inch sewer connection). All sites are back-in only. Tents are NOT permitted. Operated by the park's concessioner, Forever Resorts. Periodically, a few sites may not be available for 40' or longer RVs due to the size of the parking lot and the orientation of the spaces.

  • Open year-round

  • Full Hook-ups (Water, Electric, Sewer)

  • Reservations are required No First-Come First-Served Camping

  • Wood fires and ground fires are NOT allowed anywhere in the park. A charcoal fire in an above-ground grill is allowed; ashes must be packed out. Liquid-fuel stoves are allowed.

Chisos Mountains Lodge

The Chisos Mountains Lodge, operated by Forever Resorts, Inc., is nestled within the Chisos Basin at 5,400 feet elevation. The lodge offers a variety of rooms and cottages, plus a gift shop, camper store, and dining room. The lodge is open year-round and is the only lodging available within Big Bend National Park.


Backcountry Camping
Overnight backpackers in the Chisos Mountains must choose from forty-two designated campsites. A backcountry permit is required. Your permit will designate your specific sites for specific nights. You may obtain a permit up to 6 months in advance via www.recreation.gov.

There are six Chisos backpacking campsites available for permitting in person up to 24 hours in advance at Panther Junction or Chisos Basin Visitor Centers.


Primitive Roadside Camping
Old Maverick Road

Old Maverick Road runs between Maverick Junction and Santa Elena Canyon. It is a 14-mile improved dirt road that passes along the Terlingua Creek badlands on the west side of the park. A number of historic sites are located near the road that you may visit as you gradually descend to the Rio Grande and Santa Elena. While usually passable for most vehicles, this road tends to be rough and washboarded; the 14 miles take around an hour to drive. This road is subject to high water and flooding following rainstorms.

Primitive Roadside Campsites— Old Maverick Road
  • Rattlesnake Mountain

  • Ocotillo Grove

  • Terlingua Abajo

River Road

River Road traverses the southern portion of Big Bend, providing a great opportunity to see the remote backcountry of this park. Midway are the ruins of Mariscal Mine. This former mercury mine is a marvel to explore, as numerous structures are still standing. Allow a full day (5–7 hours) to explore this 51 mile-long road. Backcountry campsites along the drive (permit required for camping) allow for extended exploration. This road is for high clearance vehicles only and may become impassable following rain.

Primitive Roadside Campsites— River Road
  • Gravel Pit

  • La Clocha

  • Solis

  • Fresno

  • Elephant Tusk

  • Talley

  • Dominguez Trailhead

  • Loop Camp

  • Johnson Ranch

  • Gauging Station

  • Black Dike

  • Buenos Aires

Outside the Park
Basecamp Terlingua
Casa De Amigos
The Summit at Big Bend
The Buzzard's Roost Nightly Tipi Rentals
The Perry Mansion Hotel
El Dorado Hotel


Other Attractions

Big Bend Ranch State Park
Big Bend Ranch State Park offers outdoor recreation for the truly adventurous. This remote park features rugged mountains, steep canyons, amazing views, unparalleled night skies, and solitude in a high desert setting. The park stretches along the Rio Grande in far west Texas, on the U.S.-Mexico border. Visitors can hike, mountain bike, backpack, paddle, ride horses or explore by vehicle.

Ghost Town of Terlingua
Most afternoons you can see the Santa Fe de Los Pinos mountain range over 80 miles south in Mexico, and of course such local landmarks as the Chisos Mountains and Mule Ears peaks. Visitors will also find a trading company/gift shop, art galleries, unique lodging options, restaurants, and bars. Terlingua was a mining town around the turn of the century and was the site of the first famous championship chili cook-off in 1967, that today draws over 10,000 “chili heads” from all over the world on the first Saturday every November.

When to Visit

Spring is a busy time at the park, but it offers the perfect balance in weather. The temperatures in March reach a maximum of 75°F. on average, meaning that you won’t be sweating like crazy on your day hike. However, this is also when most people visit the park.
If your main interest is floating in the river, consider visiting in the summer months when the water can be relaxing and enjoyable.

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